City Guide Volume 16: Copenhagen

September 2025

Every year, I take a solo trip or two. Some trips push me somewhere far, either in distance or comfort, and some years I stay close to home. Late Spring 2025 took me to Copenhagen, a place often mentioned on my ‘city bucket list.’

Copenhagen’s reputation for style, food, and innovation, coupled with the Danish lifestyle, drew me in like a siren call. Like many who visited before me, I was instantly hooked on Copenhagen’s livable streets, community-minded culture, and design philosophy.

I stayed at Rye 115, opens in a new tab, a small, family-run boutique hotel near the Østerbro neighborhood. Østerbro is routinely noted as one of the best neighborhoods in the world. Not Europe, the entire planet of Earth.

The hotel gave me the feeling of staying in part bed and breakfast and part boarding house. Like everything I encountered in Copenhagen, the hotel was thoughtfully designed and decorated. Locally sourced, eclectic vintage Danish furniture decorated the shared common spaces and each bedroom. The hotel was as comfortable and enjoyable to enjoy a homemade breakfast from their staff in the morning as to hang out on the balcony sipping wine in the evening.

Copenhagen is known as a ‘foodie’ city. No matter how that word may sit with you, the food delivers on every occasion, from street hot dogs to Michelin-starred meals of which there are many. I can’t say I had an unsatisfying bite.

For breakfast, it’s all about the local bakeries.

It would insult your taste buds not to indulge in the city’s baked goods. I did at least twice a day—one for breakfast and another on the go, exploring the city.

Denmark’s flag treat is the cardamom bun. I don’t write this lightly; to have a good cardamom bun in Copenhagen is to change your relationship with breakfast bread. The bun is sweet without being overpowering and balances the punch of spice with the doughiness of the bun. Delicious. I still salivate thinking about them.

Out of all the bakeries I read about online and made the pilgrimage to, JUNO the bakery, opens in a new tabGo to Junothebakery.com was my favorite. Worth every ounce of hype thrown its way, JUNO has mastered flaky crust and pillowy interiors. The way they used rhubarb in breads and pastries inspired me to think outside of convention with my own cooking at home.

Another winner,  Andersen and Maillard, opens in a new tabGo to Andersenmaillard.dk, has as many savory options as sweet. With an energizing array of beverages to complement their bakery case, there will be a line on the weekends, especially on a sunny Saturday, but it moves quickly. Try the sourdough with housemade berry jam outside on their picnic tables and watch the world go by.

As a solo traveler, I am a fan of a fancy lunch over a long dinner. Selma, opens in a new tabGo to Selmacopenhagen.dk offers a tasting menu of the beloved Danish smørrebrød with modern twists and flair. Smørrebrød is an open-faced rye bread sandwich consumed by most Danes for lunch. It’s not usually dolled up in local bakeries with asparagus foam or caviar like my first experience, but usually topped with fish and other toppings.

At Selma, to the delight of my vinegar-loving tongue, my menu included pickled herring, pickled rhubarb, and pickled beetroot.

During my meal, I tried a non-alcoholic kefir soda, comparable to kombucha without the caffeine or over-the-top carbonation.

If an extended sit-down lunch doesn’t appeal, consider doing as the locals do and snagging a hot dog on the go. Whether from 7-Eleven (the dogs are different here!) or a local stand, you will have your pick of traditional toppings like crispy onions and pickled relish. No worries for our veggie friends—there are plenty of vegan options at every stand.

Copenhagen is a haven for cyclists. But if the idea of crossing an intersection with a dozen other bikes makes you sweat, the city is equally equipped and enjoyed by pedestrians. Incredibly safe and littered with jewels to gawk at, whether you’re taking in parks, architecture, or the iconic Danish girl style, there is plenty to take in at street level.

After a day of hitting the pavement, take a canal tour to see Copenhagen from another angle. I took a canal tour included with the very convenient Copenhagen Card, opens in a new tab. A great bang for your buck, the card is made for tourists to see as much of the city as possible, affordably. It took me to museums and places I wouldn’t have experienced otherwise. Plus, the Copenhagen Card includes public transportation.

If you’re ready for more, take a day trip to the  Louisiana Museum of Modern Art, opens in a new tabGo to Louisiana.dk. Also included with the Copenhagen Card, the museum is a scenic 20-minute train ride north. Situated on the coast, the museum is as beautiful as the world-class art it holds. Even if modern art is not your jam, the museum cafe and views are worth the price of admission.

The lasting impression I’ve taken away from Copenhagen is the respect and inclusion woven into every aspect of life. Care is everywhere—city planners designing a neighborhood park with all generations in mind, the care spun into Danish clothing’s streamlined yet visually intriguing designs, and the pride Danes take in their city and living with community first. My trip was short and isolated to a sliver of the country. I cannot wait to visit again—maybe next time on two wheels.